sclingerman

all messages by user

3/17/2017 Topic: ASM #121 7.0, JIM #84 1.0, WOLV LIM 1-4 9.0 - 9.4 sclingerman	adgbiking wrote: Hate to burst your buddle but CPG is not very reliable when it comes to accuractly valuing comics. You need to research market value. Hench ebay sales. There's a few issues where this is true. Iron Man #1 is one example (and it's WAY off from Overstreet's). G.I. Joe #21 is another. If you're selling a slabbed 9.4 for $28... I'll buy 10 of them right now! TAKE MY MONEY!!!! I look at completed EBay sales and I check a few online stores like Metropolis, Mile High, and 2 others, and the Overstreet Guide (although his aren't always accurate either, especially since his numbers can be months old by the time it's published and a year old by the time you look something up). I know this site's a LOT of work (and cups of coffee). And I don't know how many people pay to support it. But they need to correct some things in their Guide. I don't care if they have some modern on at $5, and it should be $6 or $7.... but when something's listed as $28 and is routinely going for $80, or listed as $150 and routinely going for $300 - there's a problem. From what I hear, this recommending/addressing this problem is a feature in the next software release. (Which I don't know when that is.) ADMIN - Any word?
3/17/2017 Topic: Original Pep Comics The Shield #35 1943 sclingerman	The title is just "Pep Comics". The first thing you need to do is handle it VERY carefully. VERY carefully. The second thing you need to do is get a rough estimated grade. There's a guideline here: http://comicspriceguide.com/comic-book-grading for you to look at and get some rough idea. Grading comics takes years of experience. So take a very nice clear big (1024 x 768) picture of the front and back covers, and post them here. A scan from a flatbed scanner, if you have one, would be even better. We members can give give you our opinions on a grade. The guide value will probably range from ~$84 for a "Good" grade (a 2.0 out of 10.0), to ~$196 for a "Very Good" (4.0), to ~$350 for a "Fine" (6.0). NOTE: The guide value might not be what someone's willing to pay you for it. Things sell for what people are willing to pay. From there, we can advise you on your best option for what to do with it based on the grade.
3/17/2017 Topic: Looking to Invest in GOTG comics sclingerman	They already blew up with the first movie. I doubt they'd move up a lot more just because of a sequel. Even the first appearance of characters new to this movie have already started going up. It happens the day they're announced, and everyone jumps on the bandwagon. Example: Avengers #112, first appearance of Mantis, already doubled or tripled in price - I forgot which. So you're not going to make a lot of money off of buying the Key issues now. If you want to collect the Key issues because you just want to collect them... then Google the first appearance of each character (Wikipedia usually even has this info), and then buy those.
3/19/2017 Topic: S. Clingerman's Sometimes Interesting Stuff sclingerman	I pity the fool who doesn't know about The A-Team! Published in March 1984, it was based on the TV show (1983-1987). edited by sclingerman on 3/19/2017
3/20/2017 Topic: S. Clingerman's Sometimes Interesting Stuff sclingerman	Robbie wrote: I suspect A-Team had a fairly small print run. All three issues! (Which is about average for 70s Atlas comics.)
3/20/2017 Topic: When to replace bags and boards sclingerman	Defiant1 wrote: If you buy Mylar from E. Gerber or Bill Cole, you are getting good stuff either way. Buy their backing boards too. rixmaxx wrote: Mylar is definitely the way to go if your planning on keeping your books for a long time. Their cost is more (around 3X as much) but in the long run, well worth it. Oxbladder wrote: Mylites and mylars are the way to go as long as you also use a Full or Half back. Regular boards are only buffered on one side or have a thin coating on both sides and that buffer is almost always spent by the time you open and use them. I WAS going to reply to this question, but they've already said it all. I buy E. Gerber's "Mylites2" bags and halfback boards.
3/21/2017 Topic: S. Clingerman's Sometimes Interesting Stuff sclingerman	In seriousness - I think that was a time when we didn't get print run numbers. But for the immense popularity of the show, I'd bet it was a big print run for issue #1, as they wanted to capitalize off of that popularity. But either the sales of #1 were low, or the sales of #1 were good but issue #2 was a huge drop. They were re-released in packs after the initial publication.
3/21/2017 Topic: When to replace bags and boards sclingerman	WaveWarrior wrote: Some good advice here ... thanks! I replaced all my comics with new bags and boards. I plan to every 3 years, just in case. Rocky~ If you use the Mylars and acid-free boards you never have to replace them again. It's worth it in the long-run.
3/21/2017 Topic: Grading sclingerman	raztaman420 wrote: Looks like home plate is facing the wrong direction on the World's Finest cover! Holy Horsehide Batman, you're right!!! I never noticed!
3/21/2017 Topic: CGC vs. CBCS vs. PGX sclingerman	From what I've read from other collectors, and the examples they've posted, PGX is inconsistent with their grading. CGC was first in 2000, and always got a lot more business than PGX which started in 2002. Due to people posting online about having more issues with PGX than CGC, PGX came to be seen by many as a second-rate grader whose 9.0 would sell for less than a CGC 9.0 of the same comic. CGC's not perfect, and there's bad stories about them too. There were just more with PGX. Because of that, CGC kind of had a bit of a monopoly of sorts because PGX was seen as pretty worthless by many. (Kind of like having only Coke and RC Cola. There's a competitor, but not really.) After a few years of THAT... it seems like CGC's wait times got longer and longer. And people weren't as happy with CGC as before. Very recently, CBCS came into the game. It was founded by Steve Borock - a veteran of the comics industry. "He was the primary grader and President of CGC. He was the Senior Consignment Director for Heritage Auctions. He handled the consignments for several historic comic collections during his time there." I personally see advantages of CBCS like free grading notes (you have to pay extra for them with CGC) and their Verified Signature Program (where they verify a signature without having it be witnessed). I like those advantages! From what I've read, there's not much difference between the grading by CGC and CBCS. (It's like having Coke and Pepsi now.) edited by sclingerman on 3/21/2017
3/22/2017 Topic: Trying to decide to have comic autographed or not sclingerman	Factors... 1 - Deadpool is popular now. 2 - It's his 1st appearance. 3 - Liefeld is the creator/artist. 4 - It's about a VF. I say go for it. Make sure Rob signs it in some inconspicuous place and not right over the main artwork. CBCS will verify the signature through a pretty cool process ( https://www.cbcscomics.com/vsp ) and give it a special "Verified Signature" case. CGC doesn't do this. They only have "Authorized Signature", which CBCS also has, and has to be witnessed by them.
3/24/2017 Topic: How long does it take to go from Bronze to Gold? sclingerman	I would LOVE to see this site thrive and prosper. I love what they've done for me since I became a Member. And I know that it's a lot of work. This isn't just some mostly-static site like a car manufacturer that only has to update their product line once a year. There's about 200-300 new comics per week to put in the system. But I see them removing things I used to be able to do. I remember having my profile contain a whole bunch of information... a whole long page worth of things. I even had some notes for myself I kept in there. Now it's just the basic Name, E-mail, Password, Avatar. (And if it DOES exist, it's not intuitive to get to it.) I remember in the Cover Art Gallery, it would bring up a good-sized image and I could arrow through them all (left or right). I remember that I could go to a comic title (listing the issues), and instead of just clicking "+ADD" or going into each individual issue... I could select 9.2 for issue #1, 8.0 for issue #2, 9.0 for issue #3, etc all right there on the comic's main page. They've added some nice things. But they've removed some nice things too. And then there's their Price Guide feature itself. They said they're adding in a price correction feature for Members, but that was a long time ago. The same with some other new features. I'm not seeing improvements. And it's disappointing because I love this site. I don't know if the problem is money, lack of employees, or what... but I don't want to see CPG go the way of AOL, MySpace, Geocities, and Yahoo. CPG is the only place I go to for comic forums and Guide values, so I don't know what others sites are doing differently. (No, I'm not saying CPG should outright copy their features.) ARE there other ones that do what CPG does?
3/31/2017 Topic: $2500 for $1000 !!!!! sclingerman	The best thing to do here with this post is to list the most valuable comics in that collection.
4/3/2017 Topic: Grading vintage comics sclingerman	"Proper" grading (as opposed to a rough estimate) is a difficult procedure to learn, and takes years of experience. There's entire books on the subject. There's guides online - even one on this site at http://comicspriceguide.com/comic-book-grading . A number of members here will gladly give their best grading appraisal for free if you post some pictures (scan are even better) of at least the front cover of some of the comics. If there are a lot of them, post a list of the title and issue # of all of them, and we can tell you which ones are more valuable.
4/3/2017 Topic: New To Site Need A Little Help sclingerman	Welcome Astonishing Adventures! I like my Gold Membership. It's really not that much money ($50/year ... < $4.17/month). I use it for logging all my comics, tracking their value, checking on the value of comics I want to buy, and these forums.
4/3/2017 Topic: Where do I find my top gainers sclingerman	At the top of the page, select your username. That should bring up a box with choices. One of them is "Gains / Drops" that shows any for the past 60 days. If you select "Collection" from that same box, choose "View Collection", then select the Publisher... that shows your Top Gains and Top Drops in your collection for that publisher toward the bottom. edited by sclingerman on 4/3/2017
4/4/2017 Topic: Raw Valus vs Graded Value sclingerman	Raw = The comic itself. Just like you buy at a Comic Store. Graded = This really means "Professionally Graded". You take that comic, send it to a company that has its workers (professional Graders) examine and grade the comic with a grade between 0.1 and 10.0. The comic is then encased in a hard plastic shell with the information (including the grade) on a label on that case. The case cannot be open without damaging it, rendering the whole point of it having a grade as null and void since someone could switch out that comic for a lower grade and try to cheat someone. Here's a site that does grading: https://www.cbcscomics.com/ NOTE: Most 90s comics aren't worth much. There's a few "Key" issues that are, like the 1st appearance of Deadpool... 1st appearance of Cable... 1st appearance of Harley Quinn... Preacher #1... etc.
4/4/2017 Topic: Staple Pop and its effect on grade and value sclingerman	Per CGC: "A Qualified label is used by CGC for certified books that have a significant defect that needs specific description...... For example, it would be a disservice to the seller and buyer to call a 9.4 book with the cover detached from a staple a 6.0 so CGC will give this book a Qualified grade of 9.4 and a Label Text notation of "COVER DETACHED FROM BOTTOM STAPLE". " I've seen regular (blue labels) graded ones at 7.0 having the cover detached at one staple... but the rest of the book was a 7.0 too. And consider your spine crease and bottom right corner crease with this. Without the staple pop, it'd be about a 9.2.
4/4/2017 Topic: Need your opinion on ADVENTURE #283 grade sclingerman	That doesn't look like oxidation with those spots. That's staining from some liquid. It didn't sit in liquid for a time to have the pages absorb it, or to warp/wrinkle the cover when it dried. It's less water than that. Maybe something was dripped or splashed on it, and the liquid spread through it unevenly. It looks like either it was wiped off quickly, or someone pressed it. A water-damaged wrinkled cover that was pressed would have this look without the warping/wrinkling. This is what I'm thinking. There is a band across it that's sun shadow. Either way, it's a serious defect, but it doesn't hurt the "eye appeal" of the comic's front cover. So I'm not certain about this. If it was the front --- a 2.5 or 3.0. So I'd be guessing a 3.5 or 4.0 being the back... but maybe I'm way off. I've never seen a Graded example to go by.
4/5/2017 Topic: Star Wars issue 1 sclingerman	JLQuise wrote: Nothing? Worth about $2.